NEW EDIT:
Hi everyone! Thank you so much for all the comments. Just want to acknowledge something here:
At 8:45 the climber places her heel behind the leading rope. A good belayer should always prompt the climber when this happens. In hindsight I should have mentioned this in the video. When I noticed what she had done while belaying on the day, I chose not to say anything until she was lowered for a few reasons.. the climbing at the top was a very low grade (you can go hands free) and I did not want to induce a state of panic for the sake of the fear management exercise. Climbing is always a balance of risks and in this situation, I thought she would be less likely to fall if I allowed her to keep climbing to the top. Nevertheless, I can recognise a comment would have been safer as no matter how low the grade is, there’s always some chance of falling. Love the input everyone and thanks again!
This video de-bunks some common myths around fear in climbing. It introduces a graded falls training approach as a way to improve fear management. Jess brings her background as an occupational therapist and shares some psychology and science. She then heads to the crag with some strong female climbers and applies the method.
Chapters:
0:00 Intro
0:30 My fear story
2:40 Meet the girls
3:40 How to start
4:19 Fear myths 1
5:45 Theory into practise
10:04 Fear myths 2
12:06 Climbing without fear
13:17 Fear myths 3
14:46 Annecdotes
15:21 Outro
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