This first video tells about 3 bouldering sectors in the Val di Mello, Italy. Filorera Hit and Spigolo Kima are considered two of the most valuable and historical boulder of their area. L'era glaciale is a hard, overhanging boulder with a nice heel hook passage, Hurricane is vertical plaque where balance is fundamental.
Val di Mello is famous for the most important event in the world, the Melloblocco, an international bouldering meeting where, every year, the best climbers in the world meet to challenge each other in epic competitions.
Marco, Giorgio and Giulio. Three friends, united by their passion for climbing, one day meet and create NoGrip. A practical guide to climbing places aimed at all those who love this world. Here you will find all the information to guide you and face various itineraries. We will start from the places of Lombardy to arrive who knows where. Follow us and click on the bell to see where we'll get!
Chapters
00:00 Intro
00:50 Filorera Hit V4 (6B)
02:19 Spigolo Kima V5 (6C)
03:49 L'era glaciale V8 (7B)
05:40 Hurricane V5 (6C)
FILORERA HIT - V4 (6B)
PARKING: Where you find a place in the area without blocking the passage :)
LOCATION: [ Ссылка ]
BOULDER AREA: ZOCCA
MELLO BOULDER - VERSANTE SUD - GUIDE REFERENCE: Boulder n.18 page 166-167
As the first sector we have chosen "Filorera Hit" one of the most beautiful in the valley with a unique historical value. Opened by Pierangelo Marchetti, known as "Kima", one of the first mountaineers to play with the bouder, this boulder was already included in the first 1984 guide "L'arte del buciùn" written by Enrico Fanchi. Filorera Hit is located in the Zocca Piccolo sector but with very beautiful boulders, this block of serizzo is grade 6b, the typical rock of the valley, the one with the thinnest grain with fewer clear and more flared notches, it is a real gem not to be missed!
SPIGOLO KIMA - V5 (6C)
PARKING: [ Ссылка ]
LOCATION: [ Ссылка ]
BOULDER AREA: ZOCCA SUPERIORE
MELLO BOULDER - VERSANTE SUD - GUIDE REFERENCE: Boulder n.9 (B) page 176
"Spigolo KIMA" (see above to find out who Kima is) in the Zocca Superiore sector, more recent than the previous one and a little bigger but still with the best rock in the area. Grade 6c balance passage and then extend on a good crimp to the right. Gorgeous!
L’ERA GLACIALE - V8 (7B)
PARKING: [ Ссылка ]
LOCATION: It's in the woods, we'll try to make an appropriate location next time we go (soon!) anyway, broadly speaking here: [ Ссылка ]
BOULDER AREA: CAMPEGGIO
MELLO BOULDER - VERSANTE SUD - GUIDE REFERENCE: Boulder n.47 page 325
L'Era Glaciale, this boulder is part of the "Bravi Ragazzi" boulder and can be climbed Sit (starting sitting down) with grade 8a. We tried it in Stand (skipping the first moves), grade 7b. Fun, with a game of hooks and shoulders on countersinks. difficult passage in the middle of the roof (overhanging wall i.e. with a horizontal inclination with respect to the ground).
HURRICANE - V5 (6C)
PARKING: [ Ссылка ]
LOCATION: It's in the woods, we'll try to make an appropriate location next time we go (soon!) anyway, broadly speaking here: [ Ссылка ]
BOULDER AREA: CAMPEGGIO
MELLO BOULDER - VERSANTE SUD - GUIDE REFERENCE: Boulder n.9 (A) page 306
Hurricane. This block entered in the 2009 Melloblocco competition in the women's category, beautiful 6c slab on fingers.
VERSANTE SUD GUIDE LINK: [ Ссылка ]
ATTENTION: The contents of the videos do not constitute a sports consultancy service. Every action reported in the video was carried out by professionals. We advise anyone who wants to approach the practice of bouldering or sport climbing to attend a certified course to have sufficient knowledge to practice these sports in total safety.
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