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TOOLS / MATERIALS (affiliate)
■ Lead free pewter [ Ссылка ]
■ Hot pot (for melting) [ Ссылка ]
■ Mold max 60 (high temp) [ Ссылка ]
■ Heat resistant gloves [ Ссылка ]
■ Mold release [ Ссылка ]
■ Mold max 30 (lower temp) [ Ссылка ]
■ Fast Cat 30 [ Ссылка ]
■ Pewter blackening solution [ Ссылка ]

FILMING GEAR (affiliate)
■ Fujifilm X-T10 [ Ссылка ] (main camera)
■ 35mm F 1.4 lens [ Ссылка ] (makes things look fancy)
■ Sony Cybershot DSC-RX100 V [ Ссылка ] (slow-mo camera)
■ Drone [ Ссылка ]
■ Main tripod [ Ссылка ]
■ Pan head for tripod [ Ссылка ]
■ Lighting kit [ Ссылка ]
■ Shotgun mic [ Ссылка ]
■ Wireless lav mics [ Ссылка ]
■ Mic for voice overs [ Ссылка ]
■ Pop filter for voiceovers [ Ссылка ]
■ Desktop sound booth [ Ссылка ]
■ Shotgun microphone [ Ссылка ]

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EDITING
3D Sage [ Ссылка ]

MUSIC
Border - David Cutter
Chocolate Box - David Cutter
The World - David Cutter

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After making our 2nd super soaker (video here: [ Ссылка ]) we thought it’d be awesome to take it to the next level w/ Bill and Britt from Punished Props. One idea was to make an awesome plaque or emblem so Katelyn designed one in designed in Illustrator, exported as an SVG and imported into Fusion 360 where it was extruded.

We printed the emblem on Bill and Britt’s Form 2. The super high quality print (13 hours or so) took longer than a FFF print would have (maybe 2-3 hrs) but it was passive time (it printed overnight). The next day we just popped it off and hit it with a primer instead of needing to sand and prime and sand then prime.

Since we were in a rush we first tried making a silicone mold out of Mold Max 30. Instead of using the normal catalyst we used a Fast Cat 30 which is an accelerated catalyst which cures in 1 hour instead of 16 hours. It seemed to work really well and got the details but when we poured the molten pewter into the mold it bubbled. We never got the answer to why it bubbled but it might be air bubbles caught in the details of the mold or the mold might not have been fully cured and some moisture could be escaping. The pewter changed color from silver to gold and purple and there was a huge loss of details in the cast.

Next we remade the mold using Mold Max 60 and let it cure overnight. We also made up an aluminum backer plate and cut a pour spout into the mold. The pour spout was large enough to allow the molten pewter in and allow air out. The aluminum acted as a heat sync and allowed us to turn the mold vertical. We think the vertical pouring orientation was pretty important too since it applies some pressure to the molten pewter as the level builds up and allows air out. All of these changes made the second casting almost PERFECT and we were SO excited.

To clean up the cast we cut off the excess with a band saw and cleaned up the edges with a belt sander and files. Bill had some blackening solution that aged it and looked awesome. We then hit it with steel wool to bring some lighter elements and contrast back in then it was ready to assemble!!

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