I loaded a roll of Cinestill 800T on my Nikon FA and this happened…[ Ссылка ]
Posing is an active affair, it is much more than just getting your subject to stand or sit somewhere. As a photographer, building a rapport with your subject or client is just the start. You must be highly observant, see how they move, watch the light and shadows, the head at various angles and critically be confident in telling your subject to ‘hold it’ when the look is perfect!
Getting the recommended settings input before you start shooting will give you the best chance of getting the desired outcomes you want. Automatic light metering systems on vintage cameras often work on the ‘average’ principle. That is certainly the case with cameras such as the Pentax ME Super. This means that the scene you are shooting will be made of equal proportions of light and shadow. It will have taken into account the extreme highlights and shadows calculating an average reading. For most cases this is a win, because there is no such thing as perfect exposure.
Using a dedicated light meter such as the Sekonic L858D allows you to take an average light meter reading or even a spot one. For shooting portraits, spot metering is ideal because it allows you to decide exactly which area of the subject should be exposed for.
The ultra close up portraits are a great example of how to get rid of negative space and really push yourself to create something new in each shot. Every shot was carefully choreographed to give a different look and feel and I think this selection really shows this well.
Two things are important. First, detail is valuable only if it helps add the impression you are trying to get across. If it doesn’t it will just send mixed messages and become lost. For example, shooting in a studio with a plain backdrop will in most cases lead to a great shot however when you have spent time setting up a whole set your image may not come out as well.
Secondly, you must have mastery over the camera you are using. In particular, you know how to manually control settings in your camera and the film you are using is capable of capturing what you are looking for.
The characteristics of films make them react somewhat differently in low light conditions, as opposed to bright light. The most important thing to focus on is the shutter speed, lens aperture and type of film being used. Knowing these will determine what you will be able to produce or not. Here’s a little project for you. Shoot a subject at every single exposure combination your camera’s lens and shutter will allow. Through this process you will learn so much more than worrying about busting the bank to pay for another lens that will give you a negligible increase in performance.
Very rarely will you find one exposure perfectly right for every corner of your picture area, but quite often you will find the most extraordinary exposure right for a certain part of your subject. Take the final photo for example, I know this is not in focus but I think it's a great shot with the taxi in the backdrop, the wet reflective floor and the lines with Rebecca moving.
Have you shot with the Bronica Zenza ETRS or similar Medium Format cameras such as the Mamiya? Which one was your favourite picture from this video? What do you recommend shooting with or how to use this film for projects! Let me know in the comments below, thank you!
Check out my last video on CineStill 800T here, see you there!
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