Altopascio to San Miniato Alto Stage 2
Via Francigena, Tuscany, Italy
Today is a relatively long day of 18 miles with 537m of ascent, much of it towards the end of the day. To shorten the day maybe a bus could be taken from Ponte a Cappiano to San Miniato. The walks highlights are: - following an ancient cobbled path through beautiful woods, the amazing bridge at Ponte a Cappiano, following the canal through countryside with far-reaching views, and finally seeing San Miniato at the top of a hill.
We left our room at Dimora Sotto La Rocca at 7.45am, leaving Altopascio, then walking alongside a busy main road. We stopped at the amazing large, modern, La Citadella café, which is situated by a large roundabout. There is an incredible assortment of cakes, sandwiches etc, English was spoken too. Leaving at 8.30am, we walked alongside a quieter road (right at the roundabout), then left through glorious countryside. Following the path, we followed the ancient cobbled path, with a bridge over a stream, before leaving the woodlands to emerge into Galleno. To the right is a general store, we called in, bought some fruit, and collected a stamp from the very friendly staff (5 miles, 2 hours 20 mins, 91m ascent). Leaving at 10am, we walked through further pretty woods, and had far-reaching views.
Arriving at Ponte a Cappiano we crossed the bridge and ate lunch at café Arci Le Calle (9.4 miles, 4.5 hours, 190m ascent). The bridge spanning the Usciana Canal is beautiful with 4 arches, it used to have a system of locks, various mills, and forges, and dates from the 16th century. Part of the buildings of the bridge have been converted into a Pilgrim Hostel-which would have been a fascinating place to stay. Partway across the bridge, the path descends, then follows the dyke wall of the canal. After one mile, just when you think you are heading in the wrong direction, there is a path to the right. We then followed a bridge over another canal, passing through re-claimed marshes.
To avoid stretches of road walking, the path takes a circuitous journey, but at least it is flat. After crossing the SP11 road, there are 72 steps, leading into the pretty town of Fucecchio, (2pm, 12.5 miles, 246m) with lovely churches and views. Later we crossed over the River Arno- which flows 241km from the Apennines, through Florence to the Tyrrhenian Sea near Pisa.
We stopped in Bason Café in San Miniato Basso (4pm,17 miles, 270m ascent). Just after we left the café it began to pour with rain, but it was too late to stop to take shelter. A new zig-zag path has been built up the steep slope to San Miniato Alto. At the top of the path is a lift that could be taken to reach the town walls, but we took the stairs instead. There is a nice viewing area at the top, with fabulous views out over the countryside.
We went for a delicious dinner at a very friendly restaurant of Le Due Torri, calling into the small shop opposite to buy some food for the next day.
Distance 18.5 miles (29.5 km)
Duration of Walk 8 Hours 50 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 1245 feet (380m)
