After bending my stock tie rod I upgraded to the Synergy Chromoly. This is my fourth Synergy tie rod. On my ’07 Jeep I had to replace my tie rod twice because the adjustment collars were seized and impacted with mud.

Anyways, I like the tie rod and didn’t think twice when it came time to replace the one on my ’13 Rubicon. Because I have stock suspension and stock wheels I ran into some issues. In this video I’ll show you what they were and how to remedy them.

First I didn’t read the fine print that the Synergy needs a maximum of 4 ¾” backspacing. Stock JK wheel backspacing is 6.25”, which means that the rod will contact the inside of the wheel when turning. I found this out the hard way and had to limit my turning radius until I could install wheel spacers. My 1 ½” wheel spacers give me enough room to clear a wrench between the tie rod and wheels.

Chances are, if you need a new tie rod it’s from wheeling. That means your stock steering stabilizer is in its vulnerable stock location. I smashed two stabilizers before I wizened up and flipped mine. However, because I have no lift, the flipped stabilizer was contacting my drag link. Rotating the clamp on the tie rod will give it clearance.

Because my stabilizer was contacting my drag link, when I turned it caused my tie rod to flop. This wears the joints and causes alignment issues over time. Synergy makes a low misalignment dust boot to correct this.

The boots are made of a strong nitrile rubber and are firm. To install, remove the retaining spring and standard dust boot, then snap these in place. My tie rod no longer flops when turning.

Now you know what it takes to run a Synergy Chromoly tie rod on a stock Jeep.

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