Bespoke Unit's Charles-Philippe and Paul Anthony break down the pros & cons of the Goodyear Welt. Watch our video to learn about this classic shoe construction method and why you may or may not need it.

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Pros & Cons Of Goodyear Welt Shoe Construction

A Goodyear Welted shoe is a three-layer construction. You have the outer sole, the welt itself, and the shoe at the top. This creates a shoe that is easy to resole, structurally sound, and waterproof. The latter property is due to the welt itself, which acts as a barrier between the outside and the rest of the shoe.

Unlike the Blake Stitch, the Goodyear Welt requires no special machinery to create or to resole. Hence, bespoke handmade shoes tend to use this method.

Of course, the majority of shoes are machine-made, and Goodyear Welted footwear is no exception. However, even with machines, the Goodyear Welt is a labor-intensive process. Allen Edmonds, for example, uses a 120-step process in building its shoes.

The Goodyear Welt is popular in Northern Europe and the Northeast USA, because of its waterproofness. For this and other reasons, it's great for dress boots, offering durability and protection from water while avoiding the bulk of sturdier methods.

And because contemporary sensibilities increasingly favor more casual styles, dress boots are even more relevant today.

Pros of Goodyear Welted shoes:

• Waterproof
• Easily resoleable, no special machinery necessary
• Sturdy, makes for a long-lasting shoe

Cons:

• Expensive; may double the price vs. an equivalent Blake Stitched shoe
• Longer break-in compared to other common constructions
• Heavier than Blake Stitched shoes

Ultimately, it depends on what you need on a shoe. If you're walking in the rain a lot, a Goodyear Welt will keep your feet dry. Also, while a Goodyear Welt doesn't guarantee quality, most higher-end dress shoes do use this method.

REMEMBER to comment! We'd love to hear your thoughts & experiences on the Goodyear Welt and other construction methods. Otherwise, feel free to suggest new videos and articles we can make!

Yours,

The Bespoke Unit Team

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Pros & Cons Of Goodyear Welt Shoe Construction
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