Margaret Pak, chef and co-owner of one of Eater’s Best New Restaurants Thattu, fell in love with Keralan food and had to share it with Chicago. The restaurant presents a glimpse into the culinary traditions of the southwestern Indian state where Pak’s husband, Vinod Kalathil, grew up and where her mother-in-law, Jolly Nelliparambil, mastered her methods.
Pak uses what she learned from Nelliparambil and serves items like their popular fluffy-yet-crispy appam, which pairs perfectly with dishes like their Chettinad pepper chicken.
