Over the years I have found that many mechanics & workshops in general tend to shy away from rebuilding final drives or differential units due to the complexity of the adjustments and, often, the extensive amount of time taken to achieve an acceptable result.

It's the kind of task that, on some occasions, discover that the unit is in fact not re-usable for one reason or another after you have committed expense on buying new bearings & seals to complete the rebuild.

So, more often than not, Service Managers will opt for the known fix & purchase a new or even second hand unit complete to prevent undue expenses that they often cannot pass on to the customer.

Even when I was teaching differentials at Unitec I found that many students would loose interest and, well, just give up as it's often a monotonous task requiring a high degree of accuracy and patience to achieve possible success.

This 'skill' is quickly been lost, so, although I'm no expert on the subject, I did rebuilt hundreds of differentials for the Suzuki Sj410, 413 & Samurai 4x4s back when I was running the off-road centre in England.

I thought I'd break down the process into the 4 main components to help clarify each step of the process. Though, like I say in the videos, there are many variances to how manufacturers present their specifications and it's imperative that you source the Manufacturers service information to have any degree of accuracy with this.

Even a slightly poorly adjusted crown wheel & pinion set can be noisy at highway speeds & life expectancy greatly reduced too.

Anyway, here's the first of 4 videos covering the rebuild & setup, oh & Tool Girl Sam helps too....though as you'll see she does get a little bored too!

Andy Mechanic

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