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Click for more info and reviews of this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch:
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Today we're going to be taking a look at the best hitches available for the 2012 Mazda 3 hatchback. Now both our hitches are going to be Class 1 offerings, which is about all the weight we're going to be able to carry with our Mazda 3 anyway. First we've got our Draw-Tite. This is part number 24843. It's going to have the 1-1/4" by 1-1/4" receiver tube opening just like our CURT, which we have here. This is part number C11383. Now both of our hitches are going to offer an 1-1/4" by 1-1/4" receiver tube opening.
They're Class 1 hitches, so there's going to be several items available that you're going to be able to utilize with your hitch. Of course towing, light duty needs there are going to work out really well, but also your bike racks and your cargo carriers. As long as you stay with a 2-bike rack or you stay with a smaller cargo carrier, you shouldn't exceed the weight capacities of our hitch. Aesthetically, the main difference in our hitches are going to be the way the end of the receiver tube looks. You'll see with the Draw-Tite it's just pretty much flush cut off there at the end. The CURT has a little bit of a finishing collar that goes around, gives it a little bit more of a flush look.
This is definitely going to be one that's more visible because it is larger, but it also offers, I think, a little bit cleaner look than what we've got on our Draw-Tite. Now both hitches are going to share the same style safety chain connection point here. It's just going to be a rounded steel stock that's been welded to the bottom. Keep in mind, though, that Draw-Tites are slightly heavier than what you get on the CURT. Now the Draw-Tite is going to have two connection points. One is going to be a bolt that we fish-wire in the frame rail. The other one's going to connect on to an existing hook that's already underneath the vehicle.
That would be the one on the side. Now when we get to the CURT, the installation process is going to be slightly more difference. Not only are we going to have to fish-wire in that forward attachment point just like on the Draw-Tite, but on each side we've got two additional bolts that we have to fish-wire into location. Now while it's not the biggest challenge in the world, it is going to take more time and be a slightly more drawn-out installation. Also, when this carriage bolt is down through, as you can see, there's going to be limited space between the crosstube and that to get it torqued down properly, whereas our Draw-Tite they thought it out a little bit better, and they bent the plate out the other way, giving us more access to the underside to get to that nut. Now both of our hitches are going to offer the exact same weight ratings. We have a 200 pound tongue weight rating.
That's the maximum downward force we can put here at the receiver tube opening. We've got a 2,000 pound gross trailer weight rating. That would be the total weight of our trailer and anything that we we're to load up on it. Of course you will need to check the owner's manual on the Mazda to see what it's rated for and use whichever of those numbers are the lowest. One thing to keep in mind, even though both of our hitches are rated exactly the same weight capacity-wise, CURT does recommend the use of a stabilization strap any time we're hauling a non-wheeled load. That's going to be your cargo carrier and your bike rack, basically anything other than a trailer. Now another key component to think about with hitches on the back of the Mazda is going to be the differences in where our pin hole is and the clearances that we're going to have. The hitch pin hole on the CURT, from the outermost edge of the bumper, is going to be about 3-1/2" recessed underneath. When we look at the Draw-Tite, we'll be adding about 1-1/2" to that. It's going to be at about 5". That's essentially going to mean that on your Draw-Tite, your cargo carrier or your bike rack will be 1-1/2" closer to the rear of th
