In this video, Tom Randall covers some of the most important "break-through" techniques and strategies that climbers should really look at when passing through that 5.12/7a barrier. Certainly, there are strong arguments to say that these elements can (and should) be addressed before these grade barriers, but in our experience, the main tips covered in this video are the real juicy ones that get climbers to improve significantly at those levels of 5.12.7a! Just address 2 of these effectively in a single season could result in 1-2 grades of improvement even before you've thought about getting stronger OR fitter.
Do remember that all techniques and tactics will improve with "time on task" and you shouldn't worry overly if you don't see sudden, miraculous improvements in just a month of working on one of these factors. Stick at it. It's going to take years and 100s of hours to really refine these to true mastery.
Let us know if you'd like other techniques covered and if it's popular, your wish is our command!
Intro: (0:00)
Twist Lock: (1:14)
Using heels for rest positions: (4:42)
Efficiency of movement vs hold size: (9:16)
Moderating pace: (12:38)
Micro flicks: (17:29)
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