It quit so I tried looking inside the switch first of course, but on mine it was an internal problem with 2 burnt and vaporized wires in the coil. There was a little spark near the front inside when it quit while using it after only about 15 spot welds. (New, but from an estate sale). Only about half of the coil had any factory tape insulation to protect it from shorting to the surrounding metal crgo casing/sheet stack. There isn't much clearance there and the existing 2 white plastic coil sleeves don't reach around the windings far enough to prevent possible arc shorts. So With heat and possible rough handling or assembly, it is only about a 16th of an inch for a possible arc to travel and it only takes one arc to fry a few of the wires in the coil. The copper coil wire is lacquered, but it isn't thick enough or tough enough to prevent the outer edges of the coil from abrasion. Taking the crgo metal leaves out is time consuming, but I can't throw away something that can be so useful... So to prevent future problems I don't let it get too hot so I only do about 15 or so spot welds at a time. In cold weather it could go longer, maybe 25 spot welds at a time. Hey Chicago, if you're going to do something, do it right. Your white plastic held up to the burn, but needs to cover the edges of the coil a little more. I used black plastic tape on the 2 individual burnt coil wires after soldering new 1/2" sections in, and then used black duct tape on the exposed edges of the coil. I have pushed the welder to about 170 degrees at the surface of the front end of the stack or body with no internal damage yet. It should have been hot enough now to soften my coil wire tape pretty seriously. I had a 110V spot welder like this back at the beginning of my career that stood up to many years of abuse. This one won't last but a few jobs. Sorry to see so much cheap stuff that good people have to put up with.

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