Turns out my original (38 years old!) Toyota Igniter (ignition module) was on the way out (along with the rest of my ignition, see previous videos). "Plug and Play" aftermarket replacements are available, but at a cost of $250 to $400! If you can even find a Toyota dealer that can get you a Toyota OEM one new, it's $800 plus!! Outrageous.
So I decided to convert to a General Motors HEI (High Energy Ignition) 4 Pin ignition module. It does the same job as the Toyota OEM unit and does it quite well, thank you, and at a LOT less money. Prices range from $17 to $30, and they are available at almost any parts store. A BIG PLUS if it ever goes out on you; easy to find almost anywhere you are, cheap enough to carry a spare in your glovebox, and easily replaced with a screwdriver & pliers. It even works with my "stock" replacement coil without ballast resistors or any other nonsense; very clean package.
This conversion will work on all CARBURETED Toyota 20R & 22R engines & will also work on carbureted Toyota 1.6 & 1.8 liter engines. There is much difference of opinion on whether this will work with the 22RE (electronic fuel injection); check out the online forums for more info.
It will also work with almost any engine with a carburetor and distributor with a pick-up coil Will also work with points distributors. In my research I saw this used with MOPAR Slant 6's, 318's, 340's, old Volvos, even some Ford small blocks.
My total cost for this conversion was under $40. This included module, heat sink, wire, connectors and heat shrink tubing. Saved $200 or more over the OEM style unit.
There are several write-ups online about how to do this, just search for "Toyota Ignition Bypass" or "Toyota GM HEI Ignition Module". There are also some wiring diagrams online; just check "images".
PLEASE NOTE: There is 1 important thing I did not mention in the video. The GM module has 2 plastic locator pins on it that need to be snipped off flush, so the module will mount flush to the heat sink. This is important for heat transfer, as the module will produce heat when operating (this is normal) and it helps with electrical grounding (CRITICAL!) I just used a small pair of diagonal cutters to cut them off, but reasonably strong scissors would work too.
