Latest from [ Ссылка ] ... mousse, Tubliss or tubes? We look at the pros and cons of each and which will suit for enduro and dirt riding depending on the terrain and your level of experience. Speed, wheelspin, big air and power slides are great fun on a dirt bike but often it means we've picked up bad habits that are actually slowing us down. As Graham Jarvis says "Going fast is the easy bit, it’s going slowly that will help you develop control." The top extreme enduro riders like Jarvis are so smooth and controlled even using tubes that often you don't realise how difficult the terrain is until you see them flying past the less experienced riders regardless of mousses or TUbliss. So cross training applies trials techniques to enduro riding for improved dirt bike skills.
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If you just cruise through easy terrain without rocks and tree roots you might last for years on the thin tubes any new dirt bike comes fitted with. Losing traction is a cardinal sin in trials riding and riders go to extreme lengths to ensure their tyres don't slip. Wheelspin and slides look great but in many cases for enduro riding but it simply means you are losing full control of your dirt bike.
In a nutshell, I reckon these are basic summaries based on opinions from the thread above and other forums....
MOUSSE: The top extreme enduro riders will only lose traction deliberately in a small number of cases. Maintaining traction is a critical skill in cross training if you want to improve how your ride your dirt bike. best option for the serious competition or hard core rider due to the best rim protection and being able to continue until the tyre is completely destroyed.
TUBLISS: great all round option for those who want the option of running very low tyre pressures when needed, and hate fixing punctures when out on the track. Body positioning and weighting are fundamental skills in trials, and watching top trials riders is like poetry in motion.
TUBES: A key part of moves like this is the use of body positioning and weighting - choosing when to exert pressure on the pegs and when to de-weight or lift the bike up... the cheapest option if you don't usually run very low pressures, aren't riding the sort of terrain that causes punctures, or are happy to do puncture repairs out on the track.
Everything in extreme enduro terrain is trying to throw you off balance regardless of using tubes, TUbliss or mousses, so balancing lays a strong foundation for enduro skills. Trials riders can balance at a stand still for as long as they like, even with no hands on the bars. Cross training has a strong focus on being able to balance on your enduro bike, even at a stand still - this is a handy skill when you have minimal run up to your next obstacle and easier with mousses. Balance also means you can spend more time standing on the pegs in tough terrain instead of sitting down, so you will have far more control of your dirt bike. Remember cross training applies trials techniques to your dirt riding skills.
TUBLISS: THE GOOD STUFF
Very light (thin tubes are probably lighter though?)
Good rim protection (a lot more than tubes, not as good as a mousse)
No need to lubricate or service them
Cheap when considered over time
Any outer punctures fixed in minutes easily, just tubless repair kit & bike pump
Ride home on totally flat tyre, or just keep riding if it's a stiff side wall tyre
Adjustable pressure - highway to dirt with a $3 bike pump from ebay
Tyre valves can never be ripped out
Tyre cannot slip on rim even at zero psi
TUBLISS: POTENTIAL ISSUES
Initial cost
Easy to get leaks if instructions not followed properly
High pressure bicycle pump needed for the inner tube ($23 on Ebay)
Need to check the high pressure for inner tube fortnightly
Should only be used with a brand new tyre, not ones used with a rimlock already
Need to check inner tube pressure before each ride
Note: most of the issues reported online were with the first generation TUbliss, since then almost all issues are only due to not following the fitting technique.
TUBES: THE GOOD STUFF
Most trials techniques involve precise use of the clutch, such as feathering the clutch for traction control up hills or dropping the clutch to launch the bike into the air.
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